Split cover boards are used for heavy books with several signatures so that the construction remains solid and an adequate level of support can be provided. Figure 200 shows a split board that comprises of a mull and the endsheet placed in between a thick and thin piece of board. These board layers are used for stiffening purposes and conceal the mull and the endsheets between them.
Cut four pieces of boards that are equal in size; two of them should be thin, and the other two should be thick. Apply some paste onto the mull; place tapes over it, and apply paste onto them as well as shown in figure 201. Fold the taped up mull onto the endsheet, and press it firmly as shown in figure 202.
Got an old book that has its pages coming apart and its stitches loosening up? Well, take out your supplies, and follow the rebinding process in this chapter.
Figure 176 – Comparison Between a Traditional and Perfectly Bound Book, Bookbinding Diagram
Inspect your book; whether it is a hardback or paperback, it can easily be rebounded if its signatures are folded and sewn. However, if the binding is perfect, implying that the signatures have been guillotine – trimmed on all four edges, it cannot be rebounded in the traditional way. This is because a perfect binding eliminates the folded edge of the signatures. Instead, an adhesive is applied on the back edges of the pages, which are unfolded sheets of paper, and these are forced into the spine of the book. Thus, all the pages are single leaves. Figure 176 shows an example of a perfectly bounded book. Though you cannot bind such a book with the general techniques that are available, you can still guard the individual pages and try to restore them as folded signatures.
As the name implies, a dust jacket can keep your work safe from dirt, wear and other sort of damages. The first step in constructing dust jacket is to select an appropriate paper that is similar to the book for which you are creating a jacket. Now measure the complete wraparound dimensions of the book. Cut a strip of paper that is about five inches wide, and crease it along the edges. Secure the paper in place with a clip as shown in figure 112. Wrap this paper around your book; pull it tight and tuck the loose end on the other side of the cover. All along, make well defined creases on the paper strip as you turn it over the book. Now remove the strip, and you would be able to see six distinct creases on it. In a similar manner, measure the height of the book with another strip of paper. The creases that are formed on the paper when you wrap it around have been illustrated in figure 113. Use these measurements to create a layout of the jacket on a separate sheet of paper. While doing this, measure the width of the flaps and ensure that it is almost one third of the cover width. If your book size is smaller, the flap width should be even more than this as shown in figure 114.
You have now reached the final phase of the bookbinding process that involves mitering the corners, turning the edges of the cover page inside the book, and pasting the end sheets. While you proceed with these steps, make sure that your work is still slightly damp because it would provide you with better results.
If you miter the cover material and turn it over the corners of the boards, it would produce a neater finish and a more professional look. This means that you have to fold and hem the raw edges of the cover material before you stick them down onto the inside of the board. If you use cloth as a cover material, mitering would also prevent it from raveling.